Adapted and abridged from the Cabot Trail Companion.

If you're planning to take the ferry to Cape Dauphin and Englishtown, you'll drive down a long spit separating St Ann's Harbour from the open ocean. Because of its size and its protective bar, St Ann's once ranked amongst the finest harbours in the New World. If coal hadn't been discovered around Sydney, it could have been the capital of Cape Breton, because back in 1629, the French built the island's first permanent settlement — a fort on the site of present-day Englishtown. But it was soon to earn a more macabre distinction — as the scene of the island's first murder, when the garrison commander shot his lieutenant during an argument over dinner.

Here's a stranger tale yet: in 2006, an architect named Paul Chiasson claimed that on Cape Dauphin he had discovered the ruins of an ancient city, built by Chinese explorers several generations before John Cabot's landing. Needless to say, this intriguing idea stirred up much media interest ... but archaeologists have since determined that the site isn't of Chinese origin after all.

If you're after more tall tales, Cape Dauphin is the place to be. It's renowned for a pair of giants: one mythical; and one real. Before the arrival of Christianity, the Native Mi'kmaq revered a divinity called Glooscap, said to live in a sea cave at the very tip of the cape.

The other giant, Angus MacAskill, was real enough. With his incredible strength, Angus was invited to join P.T. Barnum's circus and he travelled far and wide, performing feats like carrying an anchor the weight of a dozen men. In England, he performed for Queen Victoria, who declared him "The tallest and strongest man ever to enter the palace." There's a collection of his memorabilia, including clothes and an enormous bed, at the Giant MacAskill museum at Englishtown. The museum is run by Emiline Campbell, the Giant's great-niece, and she has some interesting tales to tell you about her famous relative.

Angus wasn't the tallest man who ever lived, but at 7 foot 9 he was the tallest TRUE giant, meaning his size wasn't due to a medical condition; he was simply a naturally large but normally proportioned person. So it's all in the MacAskill genes, and Emiline is convinced that one day there'll be another giant MacAskill. Already, she has numerous tall nephews, including one fella who stands 6ft 7 inches ... so, she says, it's all just a matter of time...

At Englishtown you can also board a two-and-a-half-hour boat tour that goes out to the Bird Islands, where you can get a great view of whales, seals, and thousands of seabirds nesting on the bare cliffs. The stars of the show are the puffins: those cute little clowns of the ocean which people often travel thousands of miles to see. Operated by Donelda MacAskill, who happens to be Emiline's sister-in-law, the tours are both highly educational and great fun. Donelda knows a great deal about local history, lobster fishing, and wildlife — and one of the highlights of the trip is when she throws fish to the bald eagles, who swoop down and grab them right in front of you...

Links

If you'd like more information on this section of the tour, the following links may be of interest. Because we have no control over external sites, if you find a dead link please let us know!

The Island of Seven Cities Audio Blog @ the Writer's Cafe
http://www.writerscafe.ca/book_blogs/writers/paul-chiasson_the-island-of...

Dictionary of Canadian Biography: Angus McAskill [sic]
www.biographi.ca/009004-119.01-e.php?&id_nbr=4575&&PHPSESSID=7chssvgn6pt...

MacAskill family website
www.macaskill.com

Wikipedia: Angus MacAskill
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Angus_MacAskill

Bird Islands
www.neseabirds.com/BirdIsland.htm

Accommodations & other businesses along the way

* = Featured on the Cabot Trail Companion

Bird Island Boat Tours, Cottages & Camping ($–$$)
1672 Old Route 5 (across Seal Island Bridge). TF: 1-800-661-6680;
www.birdisland.net

Donelda’s Puffin Boat Tours
Government Wharf, Englishtown. TF: 1-877-2-PUFFIN;
www.puffinboattours.com

Englishtown Ferry (cars $5.00)
T: (902) 929-2404

Englishtown Ridge Campground ($)
938 Englishtown Rd, Englishtown. T: (902) 929-2598;
www.englishtown-ridge.com

*Giant MacAskill Museum
Route 312, Englishtown. T: (902) 929-2875 or 929-2009

‘In The Gloaming’ Century House ($$)
70 Black Head Rd, Englishtown. T: (781) 829-1142;
www.holidayjunction.com/centuryhouse

St Ann’s Bay Campark ($)
1762 Hwy 312, Jersey Cove (2km north of Englishtown Ferry). TF: 1-866-791-9960;
www.stannsbaycampark.com

If you would like your business to be added to this list, please contact us...